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Extreme Waves
Index
A
Adams, Karl, 197
Aebi, Tania, 182–183
Agulhas Current, 19, 79, 85, 118, 188–189, 203, 221, 239–240, 248
Aikau, Eddie, 174–175
Akiskalian, Eric, 121–123
Alaska Current, 79
Alexander Kielland, 206–207
America, 133
American Society of Naval Engineers, 233
Andaman Island. See Sumatra-Andaman Island earthquake of December 26, 2004
Anderson, Mark, 119–120
Anguilla, 199
Antarctica, 31–32
APL China, 220, 241
Arab traders, 18–19
Arabian Sea, 18, 59, 218
Arctic Ocean, 16
Argentina, 20
Arica, Chile, 133
Armada de Molucca, 19
Around the World Alone Race, 74–79, 189
Arthur M. Anderson, 204–205
Athletic shoes, as current indicators, 36–37
Atigun Pass, 202
Atlantic Ocean, 16–19, 35, 84–87, 97, 162
Australia Current, 27
Avalon Harbor, xx
Average depth of the oceans, 15
Azores, 96
B
Badger, 139–140
Baja California, Mexico, xix, 11, 17, 92, 242
Balance Bar, 75–78
Balboa Peninsula, xix, 228
Ballast, 124, 232–233
Ballast Point (Catalina Island), 124, 233
Baltic Sea, 18, 118
Banda Aceh, Indonesia, 152
Barker, Ernie, 138, 207–209
Barometer, 42–44, 84, 88, 91, 97–98
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Barth, Joe, 201–202
Bascom, Willard, 3
Bass Strait, 25–29
Bay of Bengal, 18, 103–104, 150, 158
Beach, Edward L., Sr., 67
Beaufort, Sir Francis, 41
Beaufort Wind Scale, 41–42
Benjamin-Feir instability index, 240, 250
Bering Sea, 79
Bermuda High, 96
Bermuda Triangle, 8
Bernstein, Karl, 34
Blinsinger, Chase, 195–196
Board of Trade, certificate of seaworthiness, 188
Bobsled, 28
Borneo, 18, 218
Bradshaw, Ken, 116–117
Brady, Cornelius, 177–178
Breaking waves, 62–64
Bremen, 193, 197
Brindabella, 27–28
Broaching, 179
Brown, Emlyn, 190
Bryant, Edward, 133
Bulk carriers, 3–4, 53–54, 209–210, 219–220, 223–225, 235–236
high loss rate, 223, 245
Buoyancy force, 232
Burma Plate, 149, 152
C
Caledonian Star, 184–185,193
California, seismic design codes in, 228
California Current, 34
California Yacht Club, 124, 154, 233
Calm seas, 11–24
Canary Islands, tsunami potential, 162
Cape Horn, 75–77
Cape of Good Hope, 18–19, 26, 79, 85, 188, 218
Cape Verde Islands, 35, 97, 200
Capillary waves, 12, 25, 38
Cargados Carajos Shoals, 126
Caribbean Sea, 16
Cargo ships, 220
Carl D. Bradley, 204
Carlsen, Henrik Kurt, 180–183
Carnival Cruise Lines, 221
Catalina Express, 71–72
Catalina Island, xviii, xx, 66, 71, 93–94, 167, 175, 207, 233
Cat’s paws, 38
Central America, 7
Challenger Deep, 20
Channel Islands, 34, 47, 61, 93, 124, 237
Chen, Henry, 241
Chile earthquake, May 22, 1960, 135–136
China, 9, 18
Christiansen, Bent, 137–138
Chubasco, 93
Clan McIntyre, 188
Clarke, Valerie, 71
Classification societies, 222
Cold fronts, 73–74
Columbus, Christopher, 19, 31, 89–90
Combination carriers (OBOs), 219
Coming Back Alive, 80
Composite waves, 49–54
components of, 52
Confused seas, 88, 107, 111–112, 164–183, 192
defining, 177
Constructive interference (superposition), 49–51, 207–210, 249
Container ships, 3–4, 20–21, 36, 119, 217, 220–221, 225, 228
Continental shelf, and shallow seas, 205–207
Cook, Captain James, 25–26, 171
Cooper, Jessie B., 204
Coriolis force, 30, 33
Cortes Bank, xix, 116, 119
COSPAS-SARSAT network, 80
Crescent City, California, 136, 161
Crete, 130–131
Cross, Rear Adm. Bill, 86
Crozet Islands, 79, 189
Cussler, Clive, 190
Cycloids, inverted, 60
Cygnus Voyager, 6, 219
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D
da Gama, Vasco, 19
Dampier, William, 32, 132
Daniel, Mann, Johnson and Mendenhall, 229
Davidson Current, 37
Davy Jones’s locker, 226–246
Dead reckoning, 39
Deadweight tonnage, 217
Deep water, waves in, 14, 56, 61, 63, 98, 115, 144, 203
Derbyshire, 53–54, 220, 222–225, 235, 238, 245
postmortem of the loss of, 222–225
Design
of offshore structures, 230–231
of port and coastal facilities, 227–230
of ships, 216–219, 231–235, 238, 246
Destructive interference, 49–50
Diaz, Bartolomeu, 19
Diffraction, 166
Dispersion, 61, 111, 165
Distinguished Flying Cross, 82
Dixon, Harold, 83–84
Doldrums, 31
Dominant period, 21
Dominican Republic, 67
Double-hulled tankers, 219, 221
Draft (or draught), 217, 241
Drag coefficient, 40
Draupner oil platform
wave height on January 1, 1995, 192, 209
waves on, 207, 211
Dreams, 11, 16, 25, 47–48, 66–67, 71, 80, 92, 164, 167, 173, 175, 187, 208, 237, 240, 242–243
Drift, 34
Dwight D. Eisenhower (aircraft carrier), 86–87
E
Earthquake Engineering Research Institute, 161
Earthquakes.
See also Tsunamis;
and individual earthquakes
unpredictable as yet, 245
unpreventable, 227
Earth’s oceans and seas (Table 1), 16
East China Sea, 18
Ebbesmeyer, Curtis, 37
Edmund Fitzgerald, 204–205
Edrie, 139
Ekman transport, 33
Ekofisk North Sea oil field, 8, 206–207
Ellison, Larry, 27–28
Emerald Bay, 66
Emergency position indication radio beacon (EPIRB), 80–81
Energy, of waves, 5–6, 15, 23, 29, 41, 50, 62, 67, 98, 111–113, 124–125, 163, 167–169, 192, 202, 239, 249–250
EPIRB. See Emergency position indication radio beacon
Esprit d’ Corp, 27–28
Eurasian Plate, 128
European Space Agency, 244
Evacuation warnings, 145
Evelina, 126
Extratropical cyclones, 74, 88
Extreme surfing, 116–117
Extreme waves, 6, 8, 14, 22, 41, 49, 54–56, 99, 116, 121, 145–146, 185, 187, 189, 193, 199–200, 205–207, 210–214, 221–222, 224, 227, 230–231, 242, 245, 247–250
evidence for, 212, 215
predicting, 243–244
probable causes, 247–248
recent research on, 247–250
riding, 118–121
Exxon Boston, 137–138
Exxon New Orleans, 137–138
Exxon North Slope, 137–138
Exxon Valdez disaster, 216
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F
Fantome, tragedy of, 106–107
Fee, Jerry, 233
Fetch, 38–41, 88, 248
maximum, 235
Flying Enterprise, 180–182
Foo, Mark, 117
Forecast accuracy, 105–106
for hurricanes, 105–106
Fourier, Jean Baptiste Joseph, 22
Fourier analysis, 22
Fourier transform, 22, 49–50
Freak waves, 56, 193
Freedom America, 78–79
“furious fifties,” 45
Future risk areas, 159–163
G
Gallimore, Skip, 194–197
Galveston, Texas, 104
Garrett, Chris, 248
Garrison, Keith, 207
Gioiello, Tony, 228–229
Glacier Bay National Park, 139–140
Global positioning satellite instrument, 69
Global significant wave heights, 58
Gravity waves, 12, 38–39
Great Lakes, 203, 205
Greenland, 18
Grouper, 191–192
Grunion, 5
Guadalupe Island (Mexico), 92
Guam, 4, 20, 201, 218
Gulf of Alaska, 79, 137
Gulf of Mexico, 7, 73, 102, 104, 109, 205, 230–231
Gulf Stream, 7, 191, 239–240, 248
Gulf War, 86
Gyres, 35
H
Hadley, George, 31
Hadley cells, 31
Hansa Carrier, 36
Hanson, Jen, 198
Harrison, Jon, 220, 241
Hawaiian Volcano Observatory seismic network, 143
Heaving to, 178, 180
Herodotus, 18
Highs, 42–44
Hilo, Hawaii, 9, 134–135
Hindcasts, 102, 213
Hirshorn, Barry, 141, 146–147, 158
HM Bark Endeavor, 26
Ho, Cheng, 18
Hogging, 190, 234–235
Hokkaido earthquake of July 12, 1993, 230
Hokule’a, 173–175
Holdsworth, Ray, 84, 123
Homer, 6, 17, 38, 185
Horse latitudes, 31
Huntington Beach, xvii, 87, 114, 160
Hurricane Andrew, 96
“hurricane bow,” 202
Hurricane Iniki, 196
Hurricane Katrina, 99, 104, 108, 149
Hurricane Luis, 200
Hurricane Mitch, 95, 106
Hurricane Roxanne, 102
Hurricane tracks, 105
Hurricanes, 7, 56, 69, 89–90, 95–96, 99–103, 107–109, 187, 200
deadliest in the continental United States, 100–101
forecasting, 99–103, 105–106
a record season, 107–109
storm surges and hurricane-induced flooding, 103–105
typical life cycle, 97–99
wind-wave patterns from, 96–97
worst, 109
See also Saffir-Simpson Hurricane Scale;
Tropical cyclones;
Typhoons
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I
Iceland, 18
Idealized waves, 13–15, 48, 63
not realistic, 21
properties of, 14
Incorporated Research Institutions for Seismology (IRIS), 143
Indian Ocean, 17–18, 31, 79, 85, 91, 125, 128, 147, 149, 151, 159, 188, 215, 218, 228
Indian Plate, 149, 152
Indonesia, 9, 18, 128, 146, 215
Infragravity waves, 12
Interbox connectors (IBCs), 220
Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission, 69, 141
International Association of Classification Societies (IACS), The, 223–224
Recommendation 34, 224
International Convention on Load Lines, 238
International Maritime Organization, 23
Intertropical Convergence Zone, 31, 33
Irene, 180
J
Jannsen, Jan, 202–203
Japan, 9
Japanese tsunami, 132
Jason 1 satellite, 158
Jason and the Golden Fleece, 185
Java, 85, 140
Joint Tanker Project, 224
Joubert, Peter, 29
Junger, Sebastian, 194
K
Kaiwi Channel, 174
Kamsin wind, 32
Karess, xviii, 34
Kauai Channel, xi, 197
Kerguelen Islands, 79, 189
Kim, Gene, 151–157
King Cruiser, 152
Kingurra, 29
Kinsman, Blair, 22
Knots
defining, 39
wind and wave speed in, 39–40
Koh Phi Phi Island, 151–153, 158
map of, 153
Kowloon Bridge, 54
Krakatoa, 126, 130, 140, 166, 215
Kuroshio Current, 53, 191, 239–240
Kuu Huapala, 197
L
La Conte, 80, 82
La Palma, 162
Labrador Current, 195
Lady Alice, 194–197
Laie Point, Oahu, 135
Lehner, Susanne, 213, 243–244, 249
Lewis, David, 171, 173
Lewis, Peter, 26–27, 29–30
Lightering, 218
Lightfoot, Gordon, 204
Lisbon, 133
Lituya Bay, 1, 79, 139, 146, 215
Lloyds of London, 222
Casualty List, 3
certificate of seaworthiness, 188
Load line, 236
Long Beach, 160
Los Angeles Times, 117
Loss rate, high for bulk carriers, 223, 245
Lows, 42–44
notable, 44–45
Lyman-Mersereau, Marion, 174
M
M/V Explorer, 197–198
M/V MSC Carla, 4
MacArthur, Ellen, 45
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Madagascar, 85, 151
Magellan (Fernão Magalhães), 19–20
Maintenance, of vessels, 225
Maldives, 151
Marina Del Rey, California, 11, 16, 34, 72–73, 154, 233
Marine, 7
Marine Electric, 235–239
loss of, 235–239
Marine weather, forecasting and routing, 239–242
Maritime safety. See Ship safety
Maritime transport, evolution of, 217–222
Marx, Robert, 132
MaxWave project, 212–213
Mayday, 2, 28, 204
Mediterranean Sea, 16, 17–18
Metacentric height (GM), 232, 241
Michelangelo, 199
Midway Island, 173
Miller, Mike, 202
Minimum design, for wave heights, 225
Mistral, 32
Mobi (B&Q), 45–46
Modeling waves, 20–24
Modified Sieberg Tsunami Intensity Scale, 145
Monsoons, 59
Moore, Dan, 117, 119–120
Mount St. Helens, 163
Munk, Walter Heinrich, 22
Myles, Douglas, 131
N
Nailsea Meadow, 190
Napoleon, 22
National Hurricane Center, 97, 106
National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), 37, 57, 61, 118, 241
typical marine weather wind-wave forecast from, 57
National Research Council, 216
National Seismic Network, 143
National Weather Service, 97, 107, 109
weather faxes from, 92, 194
Nazca Plate, 128
Nepenthe, 207–209
Neptune Sapphire, 188, 190–191
New Zealand to Tonga race disaster, 44–45
Newfoundland, 18, 58, 84, 91, 162, 193, 200
Newport, Rhode Island, 79
Newport Beach, California, 14, 62, 111
Newport Harbor, xvii, 93–94, 161, 169–170
Newport Harbor Nautical Museum, 94, 173
Newton’s law of universal gravitation, 11
Nike shoes, 36
NOAA. See National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration
North Atlantic, 84–87
North Atlantic Treaty Organization, 86
North Equatorial Current, 34–35
North Sea, 8, 54, 180–181, 187, 191, 206, 210, 215, 230–231
Northeast Trade Winds, 19, 31, 34
O
OBOs. See Combination carriers
Occluded front, 88
Ocean currents, 33–36
strong, 188–192
Ocean exploration, history of, 18–19
Ocean surface winds, 33
Ocean Systems, Inc., 241
Ocean waves, types of, 13
Oceans. See individual oceans
Oceanweather, Inc., 242
Odysseus, 6–7, 17, 185
Odyssey, The , 6, 17, 38
Offshore structure design, 230–231
Oil platforms, 29
Oistad, Erik, 242
Okhotsk Sea, 16
Old Testament tsunamis, 131
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Orbital motion, 192
Osthav, 180
P
Pacific High, 30, 42, 97
Pacific Ocean, 16–17, 25, 32, 36–37, 42, 97, 111, 124, 127–128, 141–145, 171–175, 218, 241
Pacific Tsunami Warning Center, 142, 146–147, 149, 158–159
Palos Verde tsunami (scenario), 161
Pampero, 32
Panamax, 217
Papua New Guinea tsunami, 147, 160
Paragon, 94
Parametric rolling, 221
Pararas-Carayannis, George, 69
Paxton, George, 197
Perfect Storm, The , 194
Periodic function, 22
Periods, 12–15, 23, 34, 49–50, 56, 62–64, 69, 96, 118, 125, 138, 212, 240, 250
dominant, 21
return, 210
Persian Gulf, 18–19, 86, 218
Philippine Sea, 20
Phoenicians, 18
Phuket Island, Thailand, 151–153
Piailug, Mau, 171, 173–174
Pine Ridge, 225
Pitchpoling, 63, 179
Pittsburgh, 201
Plimsoll marks, 236
Polynesian navigation, by wave patterns, 170–175
Port of Los Angeles, 71, 137, 209, 220, 228–229
Port Royal, Jamaica, 132
Portuguese navigators, 19, 162, 188
Poseidon, 7, 17, 227
Prince William Sound earthquake, 136
Probability, of large waves, 54–59
Punta del Este, 77–78
Q
Qiantang River, 65–66
Queen Elizabeth, 194
Queen Elizabeth 2, 109, 185–186, 200, 215, 221
Queen Mary, 193–194
R
Rayleigh distribution, 55, 249
of wave heights, 55
Recurving, storm paths, 96–97, 108
Red Sea, 18–19
Reedy, Mark, 71
Reef break, 115
Reflection, of waves, 61, 166–169
Refraction, of waves, 61, 166–169
Remijan, Mark, 220, 241
Rescue Coordination Center, 81
Rescues, 28–29, 44, 79–82, 102–103, 122
Resonant effect, 40
Return period, 210
Rhodius, Apollonius, 185
Rift zones, 162–163
Ring of Fire, 127–128, 141
“roaring forties,” 45
Rogue Wave, 209
Rogue waves, 4, 8, 56, 81, 109, 115, 178, 181, 186, 188, 191–192, 195–199, 202, 209, 213, 234, 237, 244–245, 249
causes and characteristics of, 185–187
Rolling, parametric, 221
Royal Caribbean Cruises Ltd., 221
Ruau-Moko, 127, 227
S
Safety. See Ship safety
Saffir-Simpson Hurricane Scale, 95–96
Sagging, 234–235
Salerno, Ugo, 224
San Andreas Fault zone, 159
San Clemente Island, 92–93
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San Diego, 114
San Pedro, California, 160
San Pedro Channel, 66, 72, 187
Sansinena II, 137–138
Santa Ana winds, 32, 114–115
Santa Barbara Island, 34, 208
Santa Monica Bay, xviii, 34
Santa Rosa Island, 47, 237
Santo Domingo Harbor, 67
Santorini Islands, 130
Satellites, 58, 76, 80, 89, 97, 102, 106–107, 125, 144, 158, 176, 196, 213, 220, 227, 240–241, 243–244
Sayonara, 27–28
Scantlings, 234
“screaming sixties,” 45
Scotch Cap lighthouse, 9, 134–135
Scripps Institution of Oceanography, 22, 118
Sea anchors, 179
Sea clutter, 243
Sea of Cortez, 17, 92
Sea of Japan, 18, 139
Sea severity, 109
Seal Beach, 160
Seas, 7, 12, 18, 21, 23, 27, 29, 35–36, 40, 45–47, 53–54, 58, 62, 72–73, 79, 81–82, 85–86, 88, 150, 165, 169, 179–181, 189, 194–195, 201–202, 204, 221, 232, 237–238, 248
calm, 11–24
storm-tossed, 71–109
Seascape, 125–126
Seiches, 65, 144
Seismic design codes, 228
Seismic sea waves, 128–129
Seismometers, 23
Semester at Sea Program, 197–198
Sets
of currents, 35, 171
of waves, 15, 56, 61, 111, 179
Shallow seas, and the continental shelf, 205–207
Shallow water, waves in, 14, 56, 115, 203–204
Shema, Rick, 242
Ship design, 216–219, 231–235
“Ship of Gold,” 7–8
Ship safety, 216–225
crews being sent to sea to die needlessly, 245–246
increasing, 223
Shipwrecks, reasons for, 2–4
Shoaling, 61, 72
Sidereal compass, 172
Significant wave heights, 21, 99, 118, 210, 235
global, 58
Sine waves, 13, 22, 49–51
Single-hulled tankers, 225
Sirocco, 32
Sitting Tall, xx
Sixty Mile Bank, 11, 16, 24
Small craft advisory, 42
Smith, Nancy, 187
Snow, George, 27
Solitary waves, 176
Solitons, 176
SOS. See Mayday
South China Sea, 18
South Equatorial Current, 34–35
Southeast Asia tsunami. See Sumatra-Andaman Island earthquake of December 26, 2004
Southern Ocean, 26, 59, 77–78, 184, 188–189, 193
Spanish Armada, 226
Spanish navigators, 7, 19, 89, 162
Spatial focusing, 249
Spencer, Russell, 242
Spice Islands, 19–20
Squalls, 82–84
Sri Lanka, 150
SS Lane Victory, 138, 209
SS Pennsylvania, 177–178
SS United States, 6
SS Waratah, 188–190, 232, 245
St. Barthélémy, 199
St. Martin Island, 199
Stand Aside, 28–29
Stars, zenith, 173
Steepness, of waves, 63–64
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Stokes, George G., 21
Storm surges, and hurricane-induced flooding, 103–105
Storms, 89–95, 192–205
origins of, 73–74
Straits of Gibraltar, 18
Subduction, 149
Subic Bay, 85
Suez Canal, 217–218
Sumatra, 8, 18, 85, 128, 140, 146, 148–152, 158–159, 176, 218
Sumatra-Andaman Islands earthquake of December 26, 2004, 8–9, 128, 147–163, 176, 226
Sunda Straits, 85, 140, 152
Sunda trench, 152
Sunmore, 139
Superposition, 49–51, 207–210, 249
Surfing, 110, 112–115
extreme, 116–117
Survival strategies, 178–180
Sverdrup, Harald Ulrik, 22
Swells, 12, 110–126, 170
defining, 111–112
large, 112–113
long-period travelers, 123–124
in midocean, 124–126
tracking, 117–118
see also Surfing
Sword of Orion, 28
Sydney-Hobart race, 25–29
Synthetic aperture, 243
T
Tankers, 3–4, 137, 202, 209–210, 216–219, 224–225, 232, 236
defective, 224
double-hulled, 219, 221
single-hulled, 225
Tasman Sea, 26, 29, 209
Teal Arrow, 200
Tempests, 71–109
Temporal focusing, 249
TEUs (twenty-foot equivalent units), 217
Texas Tower 4, 206
Thailand, 9, 18, 151–152
Theodora, 237
Thira (Thera) Island, 130
map of, 131
Thomas, Steve, 171
Thompson, Tommy, 7
“Three Sisters,” 69, 186, 205, 209
Thunderstorms, 87
TI Europe, 218–219
Tidal bores, 65–66
Tidal streams, 32, 176
Tides, the pull of the moon, 64–65
Time history, 23
Titanic, xviii, 193
Torricelli, Evangelista, 42
Towsurfing, 121–123
Trade winds, 32–33
Transtidal waves, 12
Treasure Fleet, Chinese, 18
Tropic of Cancer, 74
Tropical cyclones, 89–90, 240
Tropical depressions, 44, 53, 69, 89–90, 92, 97
Tsunami bulletins, 141–142
Tsunami Intensity Scale, 145–147
Tsunamis, 6, 8–9, 15, 63, 69, 127–147, 149–151, 154, 163, 176, 226–227
in ancient times, 130–132
caused by landslides and volcanoes, 139–140
characteristics of, 128–130
diving under a killer, 151–159
education programs, 244
historically significant, 132–133
Japanese, 132
Old Testament, 131
recent examples, 133–139
the “Ring of Fire,” 127–128
travel time in hours, in the Chile earthquake, May 22, 1960, 136
tsunami intensity scale, 145–147
walls, 230
warning systems, 140–145, 227, 245
wave height and run-up, 129
Turmoil, 181–182
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Tyne Bridge, 53
Typhoon Orchid, 53, 222, 235
Typhoon Paka, 4
Typhoons, 4, 53, 89, 90, 192, 200–201, 222
U
Ulrich, Howard, 139
Ultra large crude carriers (ULCCs), 218
Ultragravity waves, 12
Unimak Island, Alaska, 9, 134, 135
United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization, 69, 141
U.S. Air Force Reserve, 106
U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, 228
U.S. Coast Guard, 9, 80–81, 237
U.S. Department of Commerce, 57
U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), 143
U.S. Naval Academy, 233
U.S. Navy, 99
USS Castine, 68
USS Forrestal, 84–85, 201
USS Hancock, 201
USS Memphis, 67–70
USS Ramapo, 211–212, 215
wave height measurement scheme on, 214
USS Taylor, 233
V
Valley Forge, 202
Van Liew, Brad, 74–75, 79, 189
Van Liew, Meaghan, 74, 78
Velella velella, 5
Very large crude carriers (VLCC), 218
Vessel Optimization and Safety System (VOSS), 241–242
Victoria, 20
Vikings, 18
Volcanic calderas, 162
W
Wachs, Faye, 151–157
Walker, Spike, 80
“WAM” site, 118
Warantah, 188–190
Warm fronts, 73
Warning systems, tsunami, 140–145, 227, 245
Warps, 179
Warwick, Peter, 185–186, 200
Wateree, 133
Waterspouts, 87
Watkins, Bill, 124
Wave addition, 49
Wave amplitude, 13, 75
Wave buildup, near shore, 66–70
Wave diffraction, 166, 169–170
at the Newport Harbor entrance, 171
Wave forecasting algorithms, 243
Wave heights, 13–15, 21–22, 39–41, 50–51, 54–59, 62, 75–76, 99, 106, 118, 125, 129, 135–136, 140–141, 160, 165, 185–186, 196–197, 201, 210–213, 217, 224–225, 231, 244, 250.
See also significant wave heights
minimum design for, 225
versus wind speed, duration, and fetch, 41
Wave interactions, 166–167
Wave interference, destructive and constructive, 49–51
Wave modeling, 20–24
Wave movement, 59–61
Wave patterns, Polynesian navigation by, 170–175
Wave properties, 13–16
Wave reflection, 167
Wave refraction, 167–168
Wave speed, 14, 62, 167
Wave steepness, 15, 64, 244
Wave types, 12–13
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Wavelength, 13–15, 49, 62–63, 125, 128–129, 167, 188, 192, 203, 213, 221, 235, 244
Weather forecasts, 105–106
Weather Reconnaissance Squadron, 106
Weather routers, 242
“The Wedge” (surfing spot), 114
Weinstein, Stuart, 141
Wessel, Paul, 145
White, Linda, 125
White, Tod, 125
Wind speed, 39
Wind waves, 37–39
growth of, 40–41
patterns from a hurricane, 98
theory of, 23
Wind Waves, 22
Winston Churchill, 29
World Glory, 188, 190
World merchant fleet, 217–218
distribution of vessels in, 218
“The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald,” 204
Y
Young, Samuel, 104–105
Youngquist, Andy, xx
Z
Zenith stars, 173
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Representative terms from entire chapter:
wave height
