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OCR for page 147
G. C. SMITH and
Z. L. CARPENTER
Eating Quality of
Meat Animal Products and
Their Fat Content
HISTORICAL ASPECT
The belief that fat deposition enhances the value of meat is not of
recent origin, having been suggested or implied in both the Old and New
Testaments of the Holy Bible. Adam's second son apparently believed
that fat cuts were desirable, since the Book of Genesis (chapter 4,
verse 4) records that "Abel brought the fatty cuts of meat from his best
lambs and presented them to the Lord" (The Living Bible, 1971~. In
the account of the reaction of the father to the prodigal son (Luke,
chapter 15, verse 23), the slaves were ordered to "kill the calf we have
in the fattening pen" for a celebration feast (The Living Bible, 19711.
Included among those who perpetuated the belief that fatness was
positively associated with the palatability of cooked meat were several
of the more famous animal husbandmen of the eighteenth and twentieth
centuries. In 1756 Robert Bakewell set about to improve the Leicester-
shire sheep of England. According to Ensminger (1960), "Bakewell
gradually transformed the large, heavy-boned, and heavy-framed sheep,
that had little or no propensity to fatten quickly, to a shorter-legged,
blocky form with finer bone and quick-fattening propensities." Hall
(1910) associated marbling with tenderness and postulated that "in-
creased tenderness results from a decrease in the elasticity of the con-
nective tissue due to the deposition of fat therein." Henry and Morrison
(1916) explained that "a fat animal has fat deposited between the
bundles of muscle fibers thus separating them, and the lean from such
147
OCR for page 148
148
SMITH AND CARPENTER
an animal is more tender than the lean from an animal which has not
been fattened." Bull (1916), in his discussion of the reason for fatten-
ing market animals, stated that "the main object in fattening is to im-
prove the flavor, tenderness, and quality of lean meat by the deposition
of fat between the muscular fibers."
Armsby (1908) said "experience has shown that the tenderness and
palatability of the lean meat are notably greater when it is accompanied
by considerable fat." Armsby (1917) also stated that "fattening of ani-
mals as a commercial process is a practice based on experience which
has shown that tenderness and palatability of the meat are increased
thereby, so that the consumer is willing to pay a higher price." Accord-
ing to Helser (1929), "a well-marbled piece of meat is usually more
tender and juicy than meat deficient in fatness." Morrison (1937) said
that "lean meat from a well-fattened animal is better flavored and more
juicy and tender than meat deficient in fatness. Storage of fat, which
forms the so-called 'marbling' of meat, adds to its tenderness, juiciness,
and flavor." Since none of these husbandmen presented substantiating
`1ntn their ~tnte~ment~ were nrohahiv assumptions. personal opinions.
~ , ~ ~ - r
or conjecture.
Some early research was conducted. Gardner and Adams (1926)
studied consumer habits and preferences with regard to beef purchases.
They concluded (in contrast to Armsby's opinion in 1917) that "con-
sumers are not always willing to pay a proportionately higher price for
a highly finished carcass" and (in contrast to Bull's opinion in 1916)
that "either fatness is not related to the quality of meat or the American
people know very little about quality, otherwise the Prime grade would
constitute a much greater percentage of the total number of carcasses
sold on the market." Willman (1937) studied consumer demand for
lamb and reported that "Prime lamb carries excess fat not desired by
the consumer and is in less demand than either Choice or Good lamb
in the eastern markets." Hammond (1932) found practically no rela-
tionship between marbling and tenderness in lamb, yet concluded that
"no doubt such a correlation [a positive relationship between marbling
and tenderness] does exist with animals of different degrees of fatness."
This statement indicates a decided reluctance on Hammond's part to
disagree with an idea that had become so firmly entrenched in the minds
of most animal husbandmen.
Lowe (1932) stated that "the deposition of fat, either intramuscu-
larly, intrafasicularly or intracellularly, tends to lessen the toughness of
meat." She referred to data collected by Nelson et al. (1930) that docu-
mented an 18% to 30% decrease in shear-force values for samples
from fat animals in relation to the force required to shear samples from
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Eating Quality of Meat Animal Products
149
thinly finished animals. Cover et al. ( 1944) noted that "a theory widely
held for some time is that the fatter the animal the tenderer its meat
will be, but conclusive proof of this theory is lacking." Cover et al.
(1956) also said that "it is doubtful that fatness by itself is responsible
for a marked increase in tenderness and juiciness. It is disconcerting
that something which has appeared so obvious to so many for so long
should be so extraordinarily difficult to prove in the laboratory."
In summary, most of the early statements associating fatness with
palatability were largely unsupported by experimental fact. Statements
to the contrary, even those supported by research data, were usually
disregarded. Cover et al. (1958) relate that in the early 1930's it was
thought that the rib and loin cuts could be relied upon for tenderness
if they came from fat animals of beef breeding and from high grading
carcasses, if such cuts were not tender after cooking then the belief
was that "a poor cook had spoiled good meat." It is the purpose of the
present review to briefly survey the literature regarding the palatability
attributes of meat and the relationship of fat content to the eating quality
of cooked muscle. Regardless of the nutritional excellence and adapt-
ability of meat as an item in the diet, meat will be consumed in adequate
and increasing quantities only if it appeals to and is accepted by the
consumer on the basis of its palatability characteristics (Weir, 1960~.
EATING QUALITY
The ultimate goal of the meat industry is to place a product on the
consumer's table that will result in a high degree of eating satisfaction
and that will be available at a reasonable cost. Wismer-Pederson ( 1958)
observed that the demand for a meat product depends upon its quality,
thus the market for fresh meat will become more and more discrimina-
tive with regard to quality attributes. Investigations of quality in meat
are complicated from the outset by the lack of a clear definition for the
term "quality" (Joubert, 19561. Pearson (1968) suggested that quality
is a combination of the attributes flavor, juiciness, texture, tender-
ness, and appearance that contribute to the Datability or the desir-
ability of the product. Kauffman (1959) noted that the quality factors
of pork, lamb, and beef are related in terms of tenderness, flavor, juici-
ness, and color. The consumer relates to quality in terms of the tender-
ness, juiciness, and flavor of the cooked product (Bray, 1966~. Meat
palatability depends upon such qualities as color, odor, havor, juici-
ness, tenderness, and texture (Weir, 19601.
Pork-quality research conducted at the University of Wisconsin
(1963) revealed that the optimal indicators of cooked-pork palatability
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150
SMITH AND CARPENTER
are marbling, color, firmness, and physical structure. Bray (1966), Rust
and Topel (1969), and Skelley and Handlin (1971) agree that
marbling, color, and firmness are the best visual indicators of quality
in pork. Quality at the retail level can probably never be described
exactly, since it depends on the palatability preferences of consumers;
and not all consumers agree regarding palatability attributes (Smith,
19681. In general, however, a given consumer's acceptance of a cooked
meat is determined by his singular or combined responses to the flavor,
juiciness, and tenderness of that product (Jeremiah et al., 1970~.
F LAVOR
Flavor is a complex sensation involving odor, taste, texture, tempera-
ture, and pH (Lawrie, 19661. Of these, odor or aroma is most im-
portant, because without odor, one or the other of the four primary
taste sensations (bitter, sweet, sour, and salty) will predominate. When
the effect of odor or aroma sensations is reduced or removed, meat
flavors are extremely difficult to distinguish. Crocker (1948) reported
that differences in meat flavor are primarily the product of differences in
odor. Under ideal circumstances, response to odor is about 10,000 times
more sensitive than that to taste (Lawrie, 19661. Thus, while ethyl
mercaptan can be detected in air at a concentration of 3 x 10-9 percent,
the sensation of bitterness, which is the most acute taste, is detectable
from strychnine at a concentration in water of 4 x 1O-5 percent (Lawrie,
19661. Aroma condensates from cooked meat have been shown to
contain ammonia, amines, indoles, hydrogen sulfide, and short-chain
aliphatic acids; but the relationship of these compounds to specific
cooked meat aroma decriptions ("animal," "brothy," "metallic," "sour,"
"sweet," "nose-filling," and "fatty") has not been established (Weir,
1960~.
Meat flavor, like aroma, is very difficult to evaluate and describe.
Communication among researchers regarding flavor is effected by use
of such description terminology as "bouquet," "serum," "brothiness,"
"mouthfulness," "aftertaste," "mouth-coating," "animal," "metallic,"
" astringent, " " sweet, " " sour, " "fl at, " "bl and, " " chickenlike, " and "liver-
like" (Bratzler, 1971 ) . Early writers (e.g., Ziegler, 1962, and the Na-
tional Live Stock and Meat Board, 19~0) attributed the distinctive
flavor of meat to the presence and quantity of nitrogenous extractives
such as creatine, creatinine, purines, and pyrimidines. Caul (1957)
attributed beef flavor to a combination of cooked blood salts, products
of pyrolysis, and saliva.
Studies of volatile compounds from cooked meat have suggested that
ring compounds (e.g., oxazoline and trithiolan), hydrocarbons, alde-
hydes, ketones, alcohols, acids, esters, ethers, lactones, aromatics,
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Eating Quality of Meat Animal Products
151
sulfur-containing compounds (e.g., mercaptans and sulfides) and nitro-
gen-containing compounds (e.g., amines and ammonia) are of im-
portance in creating the characteristic flavor of meat (Hornste~n, 1971~.
As a result of a series of investigations of beef, pork, lamb, and whale
meat, Hornstein et al. (1960, 1963) and Hornstein and Crowe (1960,
1963) concluded that an identical basic meaty aroma is associated
with the lean portion of these meats and that species differences in
flavor reside in the fat. A recent report by Pearson (1974) citing
research conducted by Wenham and associates in New Zealand tends
to confirm the previous findings. Hornstein ~ 1971 ~ has concluded that a
nonenzymatic, browning-type reaction between reducing sugars and
amino acids is largely responsible for development of characteristic
meat Havor and that the similarity in amino acid and carbohydrate com-
position of beef, pork, and lamb may account for the similarity in flavor
of the lean meat from these species.
Nevertheless, there are differences in flavor among species (Table 1~.
Beef flavor is characterized as mouth-filling, serumlike, and with good
bouquet; veal is sweet, sour, or flat; pork flavor is bland, sweet, and
chickenlike; and lamb has a livery, predominately animal-like flavor and
a greasy mouth-coating effect and aftertaste (Weir, 1960~. There is
considerable variability among human subjects in intensity and quality
of response to a given flavor or odor stimulus, with some individuals
prefernug meat that is essentially bland and others desiring meat that is
very intense. It is interesting to note that members of an uninformed
panel (Table 1 ) like the flavor of lamb, despite the fact that many con-
sumers, when questioned, express disdain for such product. Wasserman
and Talley (1968) confirmed that perceived differences in flavor and
aroma between meats from different species were largely a result of
changes in components in the fatty portions of the sample.
Fat may affect flavor in two ways (Hornste~n, 1971~: (a) fatty acids,
TABLE 1 Flavor Ratings for Rib or Loin Samples from Five Meat
Animal Species a
Sensory Panel Comparison
Species I II III IV V
Goat 5.3 d 4.6 c 6.1 b 6.1 b 6.3 cad
Tomb 6.8 b 4.9 c 6.7 b 6.9 b 6.0 d
Beef 6.1 c 5.2 c 7.3 b 6.5 b 6.6 a' c
Pork 6.1 c 6.0 b 6.3 b 6.8 b 7.0 b
Horse 5 9 c,
a SOURCE: Smith et al. ( 1974a) .
b,c,d' Means in the same column bearing different superscripts diner significantly (p < 0.05).
OCR for page 152
52
SMITH AND CARPENTER
on oxidation, can produce carbonyl compounds that are potent flavor
contributors, and (b) fat may act as a storage depot for odoriferous
compounds that are released on heating. The volatiles released from fat
or produced from triglyceride or phospholipid fractions may be re-
sponsible for the characteristic differences that are associated with the
flavors of beef, pork, and lamb (Hornstein, 1971~. Hornstein and
Crowe ~ 1 9 60, 1 9 6 3 ~ reported that octanal, undecanal, hepta-2,4-dienal,
and nona-2,4-dienal are derived from heated pork fat, but not from
beef fat, while few 2,4-dienals are generated by heating lamb fat.
Smith and Carpenter (1970) reported that hard, white subcutaneous
fat was associated with high flavor and aroma ratings for lamb cuts,
while soft or brownish-colored external fat was associated with un-
desirable havor and aroma scores (Table 21. Hofstrand and Jacobson
(1960) had previously suggested a relationship between depot fats
and the aroma of lamb and mutton broths. Kauffman et al. (1964c)
reported that pork carcasses with subcutaneous fat depots containing
higher quantities of moisture and unsaturated fatty acids produced
cooked pork that had less-favorable palatability characteristics. Depot
fats serve either as the source of flavor and aroma precursors or as the
storage medium for odoriferous compounds that are volatilized and
released from fat during cooking.
Although the basic meaty flavor is nonlipid in origin, some quantity
of fat is undoubtedly necessary to make beef, for example, taste rich,
full, and "beefy" and to assure that flavors are species-specific. As ani-
mals increase in age, flavor precursors or odoriferous compounds may
be concentrated in the fat depots and intense flavors or odors may result.
In the latter case, increased deposition of fat could serve to dilute these
precursors or compounds and to make the Havor or aroma less pro-
nounced. The role of fat as a flavor or aroma diluent deserves greater
study.
The amount of fat, on or in the animal and meat, that is necessary to
fulfill the appropriate flavor and aroma functions is not presently known.
The latter conclusion obtains, despite the endeavors of a large number
of investigators to determine the fat content necessary to establish the
optimum quality level with respect to tenderness, juiciness, and flavor
factors (Simone et al., 19581. Numerous researchers have attempted
to relate fatness to flavor desirability and/or intensity in cooked meat.
Results of some of these studies are presented in Table 3. In these
and subsequent tables of the same kind, we have attempted to categorize
relationships from "very low" to "high," knowing full well that other
readers, searching the same literature, may well have interpreted these
data in another manner and could well have assigned a different rank
to the associations described. Nevertheless, these data suggest that fat
OCR for page 153
Eating Quality of Meat Animal Products
153
TABLE 2 Relationship of Subcutaneous Fat Cover Characteristics
and USDA Quality Indicators to Flavor and Aroma Scores a
Very Very Very Very
High Low High Low
Aroma Aroma Flavor Flavor
Trait Score (%)b Score (%)c Score (%)4 Score (%)e
Character of sub
cutaneous fat
Firmness
Hard 60.0 25.0 60.0 30.0
Medium 30.0 15.0 30.0 20.0
Soft 10.0 30.0 5.0 25.0
Very soft 0.0 30.0 5.0 25.0
Color
White 65.0 30.0 55.0 30.0
Cream 25.0 15.0 35.0 25.0
Tan 10.0 25.0 10.0 20.0
Light brown 0.0 30.0 0.0 25.0
USDA quality indi
cator scores g
Flank firmness
score
TFF 10.0 5.0 5.0 15.0
MFF 15.0 5.0 20.0 10.0
TMF 20.0 10.0 15.0 15.0
SF 30.0 20.0 20.0 30.0
TSF 15.0 30.0 30.0 15.0
STS 10.0 30.0 10.0 15.0
a SOURCE: Smith and Carpenter ( 1970) .
b The 20 samples with the highest hedonic ratings for aroma of subcutaneous fat.
c The 20 samples with the lowest hedonic ratings for aroma of subcutaneous fat.
d The 20 samples with the highest hedonic ratings for flavor of primal cuts.
e The 20 samples with the lowest hedonic ratings for flavor of primal cuts.
t Subjective ratings completed prior to stratification via aroma or flavor scores.
g USDA scores assigned prior to stratification via aroma or flavor scores.
ness has a low relationship to flavor desirability in lamb and a low-to-
moderate relationship to desirability of flavor in both pork and beef.
JUICINESS
Lawrie (1966) reported that differences in pH, water-holding capacity,
fatness, and firmness were directly related to juiciness scores for cooked
meats. Kauffman et al. (1964a) and Carpenter et al. (1965d) gen-
erally supported such relationships for pork muscle; Smith and Car-
penter (1970) reported that differences in moisture, fat, and pH were
related to juiciness in lamb muscle; Berry (1972) found that differ
OCR for page 154
154
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OCR for page 156
156
SMITH AND CARPENTER
ences in fat, moisture, and water-holding capacity were associated with
the observed variability in beef juiciness.
In that it affects the appearance of the meat before cooking, its be-
havior during cooking, and juiciness on mastication, the water-holding
capacity of meat is an attribute of obvious importance (Lawrie, 1966~.
Diminution of water-holding capacity is manifested by exudation of fluid
known as "weep" or "purge" in uncooked meat that has not been frozen,
as "drip" in thawed (previously frozen) uncooked meat and as "shrink"
or~"cooking loss" in cooked meat, where it is derived from both
aqueous and fatty sources (Lawrie, 19661. When muscle fibers are cut
perpendicular to their longitudinal axis they vary in exudation from a
complete absence of exudate to an extremely large quantity of exudat-
ing juice (Briskey and Kauffman, 1971~. The presence of surface juice
is the result of changes in the water-holding capacities of muscle pro-
teins and is closely associated with pH a low pH is extremely detri-
mental to water-binding if storage temperatures are above 20° C
(Briskey and Kauffman, 1971~. Firmness in meat is associated with a
rigid structure, high juice retention, and limited losses of fluid during
processing or cooking; however, the presence of intramuscular fat
deposits can increase apparent firmness without actually influencing
fluid retention (Carpenter, 1962 ~ .
Weir (1960) reported that juiciness is comprised of the combined
effects of initial fluid release and the sustained juiciness resulting from
the stimulating effect of fat on salivary how. Descriptions of differences
in juiciness among samples of cooked meat (Bratzler, 1971 ~ are related
in terms of (a) initial fluid release (the impression of wetness per-
ceived during the first chews, produced by the rapid release of meat
fluids); and (b) sustained juiciness (the sensation of juiciness perceived
during continued chewing, created by the release of serum and due, in
,
part, to the stimulating effect of fat on salivary flow). Initial fluid re-
lease from meat is undoubtedly affected by degree of doneness and
method of cooking, while sustained juiciness is related to intramuscular
fat content (Pearson, 19661.
One of the most important factors influencing juiciness of meat
(especially initial fluid release) is the cooking procedure. Methods of
cookery which result in the greatest retention of meat fluid (water or
lipid) and hence in the lowest cooking losses are associated with en-
hanced juiciness of the final product (Smith, 19721. Beef cooked "rare"
is juicier than beef cooked "well-done"; and pork, lamb, and veal,
which are ordinarily cooked "well-done," are less juicy than beef (Weir,
19601. Cooking losses from good-quality meat tend to be lower than
those from poor-quality meat (Sable and Bratzler, 1957~. Although
high-quality meats lose more fat during cooking (which is expected
OCR for page 157
Eating Quality of Meat Animal Products
157
because of their greater fat content), they lose less moisture, possibly
because some structural change (caused by the presence of marbling)
enhances the water-holding capacity (Sable and Bratzler, 19571. Some
of the shrinkage loss during cooking is due to the loss of fluid fat, since
high temperatures will melt fat, and some is due to the method, time,
and temperature of cooking, since the high temperatures involved will
cause protein denaturation, considerable lowering of water-holding
capacity, and subsequent loss of fluid or vaporous moisture (Lawrie,
1966~. An increase in the degree of shrinkage during cooking is directly
correlated with a loss of juiciness upon consumption.
Since sustained juiciness during chewing leaves a more lasting impres-
sion than does the initial release of fluid, it is quite understandable that
most studies of factors affecting meat juiciness have shown a closer
correlation between juiciness scores and fat content of the meat than
between juiciness scores and amount of press fluid (as a measure of
water-holding capacity) from the meat (Bratzler, 19711. Tenderness
and juiciness are closely related; the more tender the meat, the more
quickly the juices are released by chewing and the more juicy the meat
appears. For tough meat, however, the juiciness is greater and more
uniform if the release of fluid and fat is slow (Weir, 1960~. Since
marbling or intramuscular fat would increase the sensation of sustained
juiciness in less-tender meat, its association with juiciness is apparent.
Bray (1964) reported that beef that is practically devoid of marbling
is less palatable than beef with some marbling. Those fats that are
present in and around the muscle fiber serve to lubricate the fibers and
so make for a juicier cooked product (Carpenter, 1962~. A moderate
quantity of marbling is adequate to lubricate the muscle fibers and thus
provide for a juicy and flavorful cooked product (Briskey and Kauff-
man, 1971 ~ . Too little marbling may be responsible for a dry, flavorless
product, whereas excess marbling fails to contribute proportionate im-
provement to eating satisfaction. If marbling enhances juiciness by serv-
ing as a lubricant around muscle bundles, then it is important that
marbling be uniformly and finely dispersed throughout the muscle
(Briskey and Kauffman, 1971 ).
A number of researchers have related fatness to the juiciness of
cooked meat. Results of some of these studies are presented in Table 4.
The consensus from these data suggests that fatness has a moderate
relationship to juiciness in lamb, a moderate-to-high relationship to
juiciness in pork, and a low-to-moderate relationship to juiciness in beef.
TENDERNESS
Consumer studies have shown that tenderness is the most important
palatability factor in acceptance of beef and probably of other meats,
OCR for page 172
172
SMITH AND CARPENTER
fat content) as a standard, over which the meat product is considered
"acceptable" in palatability and under which the product is identified as
"unacceptable," would seem to be appropriate for use in quality assess-
ments or for grading purposes and may be more reasonable than at-
tempting to reflect degrees of acceptability in response to changes in
degrees of fatness. Although some consumers may expect USDA grades to
identify meat products according to their nutritional adequacy or excel-
lence, research cited here reveals that selection of pork loins to maximize
crude protein content would identify and segment cuts that are less than
satisfactory in appearance and inferior in eating quality.
RE F E RE N C E S
1. Abraham, H. C. 1967. Factors associated with beef carcass curability. M.S.
Thesis. Texas A&M University, College Station.
2. Allen, D. M. 1968. Description of ideal carcasses. Proc. Recip. Meat Conf.
21:284.
3. Alsmeyer, R. H., A. Z. Palmer, M. Kroger, and W. G. Kirk. 1959. The
relative significance of factors influencing and/or associated with beef
tenderness. Proc. 11th Res. Conf. Am. Meat Inst. Found. Circ. 50:85.
4. Arganosa, V. G., I. T. Omtvedt, and L. Walters. 1969. Phenotypic and
genetic parameters of some carcass traits in swine. J. Anim. Sci. 28:168.
5. Armsby, H. P. 1908. Feeding for meat production. USDA Burl Anim. Ind.
Bull. 108. U.S. Department of Agriculture, Washington, D.C.
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Representative terms from entire chapter:
connective tissue